Jersey deli serves White House with tasty latkes

There’s something transcendent about good latkes, like the ones made by Petak’s Glatt Kosher Fine Foods and Catering. Crisp on the outside, hot and chewy on the inside, the potato pancakes served during Hanukkah are more than fried goodies: They also remind eaters of holiday celebrations long past. But Petak’s, a shop well-known to northern New Jerseyans that expects to crank out 12,000 latkes this holiday season, also has broken new ground with its pancakes. Earlier this month, the eatery helped make the White House kitchen kosher for the first time as its cooks helped prepare a Hanukkah feast at the behest of first lady Laura Bush. Petak’s owner, Gary Rubin, and another caterer cooked sesame-encrusted wild bass, stuffed cabbage, jelly doughnuts and, of course, latkes, for 475 guests at the event. ``It was unbelievable,’’ said Rubin, 35. ``It’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience.’’ Based in a strip mall in this borough of about 31,000 people some 24 miles west of Manhattan, the store sells traditional Jewish deli fare. Known for pastrami sandwiches, bagels, smoked fish, matzoh ball soup _ and latkes _ Petak’s dates to 1928. Rubin bought the business four years ago. Each Hanukkah, customers bring home thousands of the traditional pancakes, made with a hint of parsley, as well as variations made with apples, sweet potatoes or zucchini. Rubin said his staff will be keeping long hours in the days ahead to both fill the orders for the eight-day holiday, which begins Sunday night, and to satisfy walk-in customers. Carol Florsheim recently drove from Fort Lee to pick up a dozen apple pancakes, which she heard were served in Washington. ``What’s good enough for the White House should be good enough for New Jersey,’’ said Florsheim, who also ordered a lunch of kosher hot dogs and cole slaw. Making the White House kitchen adhere to strict Jewish dietary laws took several hours. In the past, kosher food was brought in by caterers, not prepared in the kitchen, said Susan Whitson, a spokeswoman for the first lady. Three rabbis oversaw the process, said Rabbi Binyomin Taub, coordinator of kosher matters for the Rabbinical Council of Bergen County, who attended. Confection ovens were heated to 500 degrees for two hours and counters were cleaned with boiling water, Taub said. The latkes were a hit in Washington and with a group of seniors who ate them at two Hanukkah parties sponsored by Jewish Community Centers in northern New Jersey. ``They’re moist and thick and delicious,’’ said Sharon Gordon, who oversees senior programs at a community center where Petak’s has served its fried latkes for the last four years. ``Making 400 seniors happy is not an easy task and they enjoy them.’’