Andre's Restaurant settling in on Seneca Lake
BY ROSE SGARLATO
SPARTA — With 17 years of experience as a successful chef and restaurant owner in Newton, Andre de Wall could have chosen any location to start anew, and people would follow.
Fortunately, Andre and his business partner and wife, Tracey, chose Sparta. Opened in August in the former Zoe’s space on Seneca Lake, Andre’s Restaurant was highly anticipated by Spartans; and so far, so good.
“We decided to do the next thing. And this worked out-we love the idea of being on the water,” said Andre.
The dynamic duo is known for his back-of-the-house culinary creations and her front-of-the-house management expertise — a match made in heaven in the restaurant industry.
When the de Walls opened Andre’s Restaurant in 1998 on Spring Street in Newton, they were taking a leap of faith with a questionable storefront in a town not known for its gourmet eateries. But in no time at all, Newton soon became known for more than being just the county seat — it now had Andre’s, a restaurant with a young, talented chef putting out five-star food.
“We got married, bought a home and opened a restaurant all in six months,” Andre laughed while reflecting on their journey.
Food critics from the New York Times and many New Jersey publications recognized the Culinary Institute of America graduate for his French technique and flavorful reinterpretation of classic dishes. At the same time praising Tracey for training a staff that prioritized service, and her notable presence in the dining room.
At that time it is not unreasonable to say that dining at Andre’s in Newton was a unique and unparalleled experience. Customers would have had to go to New York City for anything comparable.
Fast forward 17 years and the de Walls were looking to spread their wings. The new location has been renovated with seating for about 65 and a few rooms for semi-private dining. Views of Seneca Lake surround the restaurant, including the kitchen where Andre is hard at work with Chef de Cuisine Jeff Galan.
“It’s nice to cook with a view,” said Andre. “And Jeff and I worked together in Newton, so this is a natural progression.”
Outdoors, there is a lakeside patio that continues to be a big hit in season with fall foliage and nice temperatures.
But his food is the most important aspect of the new Andre's.
“The inspiration is from French impressionists and how they were inspired from Japanese artists,” he said. “I would say the menu is 60 percent French and looking East.”
In simple terms, Asian influences can be seen across the board in the fried whole branzino with steamed dumplings, and the pan roasted duck breast with citrus and soy and sticky rice.
Andre has never been afraid to take chances.
“People ask me why we have so many birds on the menu,” he said. “They are all different; the duck is rich and fatty, the squab is lean.”
And despite the occasional risk-taker, de Wall says everything is selling evenly across the board.
“Tracey and I educate the staff on what goes into the dish, how it is prepared. They taste the food, so that everyone is on board and cares about the product.”
Old favorites of diners, king salmon with ratatouille and pan-roasted chicken with roasted apples and potatoes, return to the menu.
Andre’s was featuring locally sourced food now known as "farm to table" before many of its competitors. He is known for house-made charcuterie such as sausages and pates as well as house-made ice cream.
“I am amazed at the amount of desserts sold,” he said.
And it doesn’t end after dessert. The revolving cheese plate is another favorite way to finish a meal at Andre’s.
The journey continues for Andre and Tracey de Wall in Newton, while for Sparta it’s just begun.
“Things are going well. It’s good to see old faces and meet new faces.”
Andre is a BYO establishment and honors food allergies and most special requests.
Located at 112 Tomahawk Trail. Reservations are suggested, call 973-726-6000 or www.andresrestaurant.com.